History of Cufflinks

Cuffmaster.com (27th July 2008)

�Watching a man doing his cufflinks is every bit as sensuous as having a zipper slide down the back of a little black dress� � Anon

In western culture clothing accessories are generally associated with female fashion. There are some exceptions that cut across both genders such as watches, belts and cufflinks. Of these cufflinks arguably give the most licence for self-expression without losing the functionality that most clothing accessories strive for.

The history of the cufflinks goes back to the middle ages where its precursor the �cuff string� adorned the wrists of fashionistas of the day. One of the earliest references to what we know recognise as cufflinks was made in the London Gazette of 1684 which referred to a pair of cuff buttons set with diamonds, the same journal in 1686 also described a pair of gold enamelled cuff buttons.

More evidence of the existence of cufflinks was discovered in Suffolk, England when a decorated gold single chain cufflink was discovered also dating back to the 17th century.

Despite its early appearance the continual taste for adorning sleeve ends with elaborate wrist ruffles meant it was not until the mid-nineteenth century that the cufflink really came into its own as dandy-ish ruffles gave way to functionally minimal sleeves and in particular the arrival of the French Cuff (also called the Double Cuff) or as the French themselves called it poignet mousquetaire � the musketeers cuff, paving the way for the emergence proper of cufflinks.

Initially confined to the upper echelons of society, by the 1860�s cufflink grew into the mainstream as jewellers like Child & Child in London and Krementz & Co in New York brought out cufflinks that were within the price range of the wider public.

The cufflink grew in popularity and the early to mid nineteenth century marked its hey-day as it became a must have adornment for any discerning gentleman. By the dawn of the 20th century in England the cufflink had acquired the royal stamp of approval with the ascension to the throne of King Edward VII whose famed clothes collection included a Faberge formal cufflink of bright red enamel with rubies and diamonds.

The halcyon days were not to last as the great wars took their toll on fashion and cufflinks were no exception, but the end of World War II did not bring immediate relief as the counter-culture revolutions of the 50�s and 60�s threatened to wash away any iota of formality, cufflinks included, coupled with mass manufacturing techniques which brought vast amounts of buttoned cuffs to consumers. It was to be another 20 years before the cufflink re-emerged fully into the mainstream arriving on the wave of a return to glamour and haute couture that signified the 80�s and 90�s. By 1990 GQ the gentlemen�s style magazine had heralded the cufflinks return.

Today the cufflink continues to enjoy widespread acceptance and the popularity of French cuff shirts from shirt makers such as TM Lewin, Thomas Pink and Brooks Brothers has boosted its appeal across all fashion tastes.

References:

A History of Men�s Fashion � F. Chenoune � Flammarion, 1993

Cufflinks � S. Jones, M. Nisserson � Henry N. Abrams, 1991

Esquire�s Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men�s Fashion � Esquire Magazine � McGraw Hill, 1973